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While tartan for men in the shape of kilts tends to be restricted to special occasions such as weddings, graduations and as part of military dress. For women tartan has always been more of an everyday outfit whether in the form of a mini, hostess or Billie kilt, shawl, bodice, bag or hair clips. Tartan is also frequently used in girls school uniforms. Lightweight tartan shawls have been a staple of the Highland woman’s wardrobe from the mid-nineteenth century, as well as keeping warm their function was also decorative to emphasise the cut of dresses at the time. From the Catwalk to the High Street tartan has played an on-going and evolving role lending itself to a myriad of trends from glamour, Goth and punk and as a staple of traditional classic tailoring. Tartans fashion credentials began in the early twentieth century. In the 1920’s Chanel introduced a shorter kilt suitable to the style of the roaring twenties. Vivienne Westwood can be credited with doing more for tartan than any other designer. Westwood has used tartan to evoke Highland fantasies, punk and structured tailoring. Striking pieces included fitting bodices, mini-skirts, wraps and tailored jackets. With a love of the Royal Stewart and Royal Stewart Hunting Westwood also designed her own tartans which she worked on with Locharran, one of Scotland’s top weavers. Most recently her work has been referenced by Japanese designers who share her passion for the plaid.

Tartan is key to Japanese design Tartan has links historic and current around the world. The presence of Highland regiments who assisted British colonisation resulted in tartan featuring far and wide; including areas as far flung as the Caribbean, India and South America. Similarities between tartans and madras cloths from Southern India show the influence tartans had on local textile production. The presence of Highland regiments in France strengthened French interest in Tartan. Many Japanese designers also have a fondness for tartan which has long -standing popularity in the country- as far back as 1871 the Emperor of Japan introduced tartan skirts as part of girl’s school uniform. Similarities between Japanese clothing and highland dress are noticeable the fhelidh -mor and the arisaid is rely on wrapping, tying, pleating and draping rather than on traditional western tailoring techniques. Tartan has a complex and rich history both in Scotland and around the world. Its dominance owes much to the versatility of the fabric. When used in clothing it can be historically specific or vague, nationally defined or global, hand - crafted or mass produced, conservative or revolutionary, bright or muted, and can be worn by the wealthy and the poo, by civilians and the military. You would be hard pressed to find a fabric with so many different connotations.

Sett – refers to the number of yarns of each colour used, the sett is the identifying sequence of each individual tartan pattern. The simplest setts are for the Macgregor tartan- also known as the Rob Roy which features equal bands of red and black. This is in stark contrast to the Ogillvie of Airlie tartan which has 182 colour changes. Early tartan production Items such as blankets, shawls and wraps were hand -made, woven by women in their homes. Those who had the means would occasionally make use of travelling weavers who would take on specific commissions. In such instances those commissioning the order would provide their own wool which they had dyed themselves. The old handlooms used by weavers produced cloth of around three feet, to achieve the desired length sections were then sewn together to produce larger section of cloth. Up until the eighteenth century wool from a now extinct variety of sheep was used, these sheep shed their wool which could then be gathered and spun. During the reign of Queen Victoria the monarch instituted the importation of softer Saxony wool as she felt traditional wool would make tartan which was too rough for use of Highland regiments – she was of course interested in stronger trading relationships with Germany. Today much of the wool used in the production of tartan comes from varieties of sheep originally from New Zealand and Australia The waulking of the cloth is a process that has received much attention as it captures a different style of life and community. Once the cloth had been woven it was soaked in an alkaline solution and beaten by the local women using their hands and feet. Around ten women would participate and during the proves to keep the momentum going the women sung special waulking songs, these had different tempos slow and fast depending on the stage of the process. The The Act of proscription – The Disarming Act of 1746 is the most significant event to take place in the history of tartan. Under the act the wearing of tartan was banned. Following the lifting of the ban in 1782 and the reintroduction of tartan was transformed. It changes from being a poor man’s cloth worn in the Highlands to a sought after ad fashionable material which became popular throughout Scotland. At the dame time its manufacture changes from hand made to manufactured in the newly established factories – which helped to keep up with demand. Early tartan colours were created using locally available materials such as vegetable skins, plants and minerals – popular were bracken, heather, onion skins and myrtle. Iron and copper were then used to fix the dye. From the end of the seventeenth century, particularly wealthier members of society natural dyes were supplemented by the use of imported dyes from India and the Americas. These were used particularly when creating blues and reds which were particularly hard to achieve using natural materials.

District tartans can be worn by anyone from or living in a particular area. In a description from 1703 ‘Description of the Western Isles of Scotland’ the concept of the district tartan goes towards establishing the ancient origin of the district tartans. ‘Every Isle differs from each other in their fancy of making plaids as to the stripes and breadth of colours, able to the first view of a man’s plaid to guess the place of residence’ this demonstrates the strength of local affiliation and tartan at the time. As with many tartans which have evolved over time with new being made to today, some of the district tartans are from the 18th century, while other are more recent additions. The following district tartans are accepted district sets – Lennox, Paisley, Stirling, Dundee, Galloway, Aberdeen, Crieff, Huntley, Bannockburn, Strathearn, Tweedside, Nithsdale, and Lochaber. Additionally each of Canada’s provinces apart from Quebec has its own district tartan. The historical evidence for tartans linked to a particular area of Scotland is in fact much stronger that the historical evidence for links between tartans and different families or clans. Lennox tartan from an area near Glasgow is one of the earliest tartans to be recorded, and dates from the mid – sixteenth century. However looking at tartan origins and whether district or clan tartans came first the scenario need not be either or as often family groups wore similar patterns as what would have been available to them in the local area was limited to what local weavers were able to offer.

A made to measure kilt or kilt package is a both a luxury and a good investment purchase. Apart from possibly a suit, a made to measure item of clothing stands out from other items. While off-the peg is ideal for everyday an item that has been made especially for you is guaranteed to fit perfectly. For a special occasion such as a wedding or graduation if you’re Scottish or of Scottish decent a made to measure kilt is a must. Once you have made the initial investment a kilt can be worn at many different events as it never goes out of fashion.  When purchasing made to measure kilts you will be able to make a number of choices so you get just what you are looking for. The first will be your choice of tartan. Family or clan tartans are the most popular choice, followed by standard Scottish tartans like Heritage of Scotland, or Grey Spirit. Over 3,500 tartans are registered with the Scottish Tartans Authority and the number of new tartans grows each year. As well as choosing your tartan, you will be able to chose the shade of the colours. The majority of tartans are available in different colours; modern, weathered and muted. Muted colours use earthy tones, modern colours are brighter shades which show off aniline dying techniques. Weathered tones, as you can guess from the name, use colours which appear to have been weathered by the elements, as such they are brighter than muted tones, but not as bright as modern colours. Buying a made to measure kilt is a significant investment, if you are unsure of which tartan you would like it is defintely worth asking for a swatch from your kilt maker. This will allow you to see exactly how it looks and feels. A digital swatch can look different from the actual tartan! A reputable kiltmaker will be able to provide you with a sample swatch for a few pounds. It is also worth noting that while to colours of a tartan are given in the thread count, the exact shade may vary from one mill to the other as well as between different batches of dyes used by each mill. Once you have chosen your tartan and old, modern or weathered style you will have the choice of pleating and kilt weight to make. Your kilt can be pleated to the sett or to the stripe, as both methods produce different visual effects it is worth considering how effective each will be depending on the design of your chosen tartan. Pleating to the stripe - one of the vertical stripes of the tartan is selected and the fabric is folded so that the stripe runs down the centre of each pleat, as a result the back and sides of the kilt, which are pleated, are different from the un-pleated front. This style is also referred to as military pleating as the style is popular with many regiments and military and other pipe bands. The alternative method of pleating, to the sett which means that the fabric is folded so that the pleated sections have the same pattern as the un-pleated front. Pleats can be box or knife pleats – a knife pleat is a simple fold, box pleats – generally used for military kilts only- are formed by two knife pleats back to back. A traditional kilt is made from worsted wool. Worsted is the name of the yarn, it can also refer to the cloth made from the yarn. It takes it’s name from the English village of Worsted, the village became the centre for weaving after weavers from Flanders settled there in the 12th Century. Worsted wool cloth is a hardwearing fabric which keeps the pleats of the kilt sharp. The depth of pleats will depend on the amount of material used, for example 5 or 8 yards as well as the pattern/sett of the tartan. Generally pleats are around ½ to ¾ of an inch. Kilt weights vary from the traditional 16-17oz kilt, the most popular weight which achieves a great looking kilt that holds it shape. Lighter weight kilts are around 12-13oz and these are more suited to warmer weather and when buying a casual kilt for less formal occasions. It is worth noting that not all tartans are available in all weights. Making a kilt is something of an art form, as such it is worth asking who will be making yours and the level of experience they have. Each kilt should include sporran loops and come with matching flashes. See our full range of made to measure kilts  

A sporran is an essential part of Highland dress when wearing a kilt, both to keep the tradition of the outfit as well as for practical reasons, where else to keep your flask of whisky and mobile phone… As early as the twelfth century Highlanders were described as being "bare-legged, with shaggy cloaks and ‘a scrip’ or small bag. During this time only highlanders wore the traditional Feileadh Mor or great kilt and such dress was looked down upon by the lowlanders. The kilt at that time consisted of a large piece of tartan cloth, untailored that was worn over the shoulder fastened in place with a broach at the shoulder and belted around the waist. The material, being hardwearing and waterproof was ideally situated to the conditions and provided more comfort that trousers, but with one disadvantage – not pockets! Hence the creation of the sporran. Sporrans at that time were different from those we see today. Made simply from leather or other animal skin they were gathered at the top using a basic draw string. Highlanders in the Western Isles also wore cloth pouches which were known as trews. The evolution of the sporran from its humble beginnings to the ornate offering of today can be traced back through history in paintings of the time and items from as far back as the fourteenth century which are preserved in various Scottish museums. One of the most interesting sporrans is that which contained a hidden pistol, primed to go off in someone other that its owner dared to open it! The poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott was so inspired by an 18th century, pistol-firing sporran he incorporated it into his story Rob Roy in which Roy himself declared, "I advise no man to attempt opening this sporran till he has my secret." Sounds advice given its contents! Sporrans became more elaborate in their design from the seventeenth century onwards, when a cantle made of metal or even silver if you happened to be an important figure such as a clan chief was incorporated into the design. Cantles featured beautifully designed emblems such as Celtic symbols. These sporrans were often designed with a flap top and three tassels and used a range of furs including fox, horse and sealskin – all of which can be seen in the sporrans currently on offer. The traditional military sporran was introduced in the eighteenth century and were splendid to see as part of a military regiments – they were made from long goat-hairs and known as, sporran molach. The sporran should hang down from a sporran chain so that it sits under heath the belt buckle. As the two are seen close together it is common to match their designs as well as that featured on the sgain dhub. When it is inconvenient to have the sporran hanging down in front, for example when dancing or driving it is perfectly acceptable to have it hand from the side of the waist. For the best look as well as comfort a sporran should be worn a few inches below the belt. If you are taking part in highland dancing wearing the sporran slightly lower may help to keep the kilt from flying up and preserve your modesty. There are three main categories of sporran to choose from and tradition and common usage are fairly prescriptive as to which suits which occasion. The Day sporran as you will probably have guessed is most suited to day time and more casual events such as foot matches. Made form brown or black leather, a simple motif may be carved into the leather and generally it has three tassels, overall the look is a simple adornment. Black Dress sporrans can be slightly larger that day sporrans and are usually highly decorative, with a fur face and sterling silver cantle which is itself highly patterned, usually with a Celtic motif such as a thistle, clan or Masonic emblem. Celtic knots are also popular. If you are looking for a show-stopper of a sporran, an animal mask sporran would certainly fir the bill – made from an animal belt the head forms the sporran flap – badger and fox varieties are particularly popular. Piper sporrans are made of horsehair, the long hair swishes as the pipers march and adds to the visual element of any regimental display. In general long –haired sporrans are only used by pipe bands. In between the Day Sporran and the Dress Sporran is the Semi Dress Sporran, this sporran lies somewhere between the dress and the day sporran – having leather flap and short-haired body. A semi-dress sporran is the most versatile of the sporran types and can be worn for many day and more formal events.

From sporrans and belt buckles to T-shirts and rugby tops, we have an extensive range of Saltire items. Just Click here to see the full range http://www.thescotlandkiltcompany.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=30&q=saltire

The Lion Rampant of Scotland is also known as The Royal Standard of Scotland as well as Banner of the King of Scots. It has a rich history and remains a popular emblem today, which is associated with Scotland around the world.  The earliest record of its use was by Alexander the third in 1222. It was also used by the King of Scots up until the Union of Scottish, Irish and English crowns in 1603. Following the union a new flag was created to represent the joining together of the different countries, Scotland’s lion Rampant was incorporated into the new Royal Banner in 1707. The distinctive Lion Rampant features a red lion set against a yellow background with a double red border and the lion’s claws and tongue are blue. Officially the Lion Rampant flag is restricted to the monarch, as well as those that represent her in Scotland such as the First Minister, the Lord Lion King of Arms. The Court of the Lord Lyon is deals with relating to Scottish Heraldry and Coats of Arms as well as keeping a register of arms and genealogies in Scotland. Other, though not all Lord Lieutenants are also permitted to use the Lion Rampant flag. The Duke of Rothesay, heir apparent to the King of Scots is entitled to us a slightly different version of the Lion Rampant. Prince Charles also used a modified version. A royal warrant was issued which allows the flag to be displayed as a sign of loyalty to the crown and the Lion Rampant is a popular emblem in Scotland. However at one time use other than by the monarch was unlawful and would have resulted in a fine or worse! Today the Lion Rampant can often be seen at sporting events on flags or rugby tops. It also features on many items of Highland wear including items such as sporrans, sgain dubhs, belt buckles and even traditional hose. On these items usually the lion without the yellow background is used, and the lion can be in blue, red or white. Black

Scotland’s national flag is thought to be the oldest in the world. Know as the Saltire or St Andrews Cross it consists of a white diagonal saltire set against a blue background. The shape of the Saltire takes its shape from the cross on which St Andrew Scotland’s patron saint was crucified. Its use came into being as a result of an important Scottish victory. Under the High King of Alba an Army made up of Picts and Scots attempted to take land in what is now East Lothian from the Angles Saxons – land which was still part of Northumberland at that time. This was no easy feat, as the opponent Angles Saxons forces were much greater in number. It is said that on the eve of battle St Andrew appeared in a dream to the High King and assured him of victory and that in the morning of the battled white clouds formed a white cross in the sky. And so inspired he was able to lead his men to victory and the Saltire was adopted as a powerful symbol of the emerging nation of Scotland. In regular use from the 14th century, it wasn’t until the 16th century that the Saltire was placed against a coloured background. At the union of Scottish and English parliaments in 1707 the Scottish Saltire was incorporated into the design of the Union flag. Despite this its use dwindled until the near the end of the 20th century. Today the Saltire is Scotland’s official national flag. In 2003 Scottish politicians, following consultation with the office of the Lord Lyon King of Arms among others, made recommendations that the same shade of blue (pantone 300) be used for all Saltire flags. However as it is a voluntary rather than a statutory code there are no consequences for using a different shade of blue, although most do stick to the recommended celestial blue. The Scottish Government ruled that the Saltire should fly from all its buildings from 8am until sunset, apart from on UK national days when the union flag should be flown. On St Andrews Day it is common for embassies across the UK to fly the Saltire. And Northern Ireland the Saltire is used to celebrate Ulster-Scotch heritage. The Saltire is displayed by the Scottish Division of the British Army as well as the Scots Guards regiments, on combat and transport vehicles. In the battle for "hearts and minds" in Iraq, the Saltire was used by the British Army as a means of distinguishing troops belonging to Scottish regiments from other coalition forces, in the hope of fostering better relations with the civilian population. As well as being one of the key components of the Union Flag a similar design is used in other countries. In Canada, for example, an inverse representation of the Saltire blue on a white background, with the shield from the Royal Arms of the Kingdom of Scotland. Together form the flag of the Nova Scotia (New Scotland) in Canada. Nova Scotia was the first colonial venture of Scotland into the Americas. The Saltire is proudly displayed at sporting events and often features on traditional highland wear items, including sporrans, plaid brooches, socks, cufflinks and buckles.    

History, tradition and romance make Scotland the ultimate wedding location. Unlike any other country in the world under Scottish law you can get married anywhere you want as long as the dignity of the occasion isn’t compromised. This is because it’s the person who conducts the wedding ceremony rather than the venue that is licensed. As such you can add to the joy of your big day by choosing a stunning location that is personal to you. A golden beach, historic castle or beautiful gardens are just a few of the options available. White heather is a traditional Scottish token of good luck for weddings and can be incorporated into the bride and grooms outfits. A Scottish Quaich, known as ‘the loving cup’ brings the guests together and involves them into the ceremony. Following the marriage ceremony a Quaich is filled with whisky and passed by the bride to the guests so they can raise a glass in celebration. The traditional toast is Slainte Mhath meaning ‘to your health’ in Scots Gaelic. The Quaich can then be offered to the piper as a ceremonial dram in return for a traditional blessing. Traditional Scottish outfits add a touch of splendour the proceedings. The male members of the party usually wear a clan tartan and a kilt jacket with a piece of lucky white heather in the lapel. Accessories include a dirk and sporran. A kilt pin bearing the clan crest and motto can also be added. As a mark of honour, best men may where the clan tartan of the groom’s family. National tartans such as Flower of Scotland, Spirit of Scotland are also popular. Alternatively if each of the male members wishes to wear their own family tartan this add the sense of many families coming together to support the marriage and looks very colourful. While a kilt is the most common attire for the male members of the party at a Scottish wedding other options include wearing a tartan bow tie, a tartan waistcoat with a lounge suit or tartan trews are attractive alternatives. If getting married in a warm climate a Ghillie shirt, worn with or without a waistcoat is a more casual, rugged look perfect for an outdoor wedding. The groom also has the option of wearing a fly plaid which is worn under the epaulette of the jacket and secured with a plaid brooch. Tartan is also usually incorporated into the brides outfit and can include a tartan sash or tartan ribbons adorning the wedding dress. A tartan inset into the brides train or a tartan dress are both stunning options. Tartan ribbons can also be included into the bridal bouquet. Lucky white heather is a popular choice for jacket lapels and corsages. A highland piper resplendent in full highland dress adds to the grandeur of the occasion,they can play as the guests arrive, as the couple emerge after the ceremony and during the cutting of the cake. Traditionally a piper will hand his dirk to the couple of the cutting of the cake. A piper can also play for the couples first dance, a traditional Scottish reel and also when the other guests take to the floor. Tying the know originated from a custom thought to have been established in pagan times whereby the bride and groom would tear off a piece of their wedding clan tartans and join them together as a symbol of their unity. Following the exchange of vows the groom often pins a sash of his tartan on the right shoulder of the bride to show they are now part of the clan. Alternatively a groom wearing a fly plaid can offer it to the bride to be worn over her shoulders as a shawl. The Luckenboth broach, usually silver, features two intertwined hearts is worn by either the bride or groom. It can then be pined to the blanket of their firstborn for good luck. After the wedding ceremony a much loved tradition called the scrabble takes place, whereby the groom throws a handful of coins from his pocket or sporran outside the church and children eagerly gather them. A Scottish wedding can incorporate wonderful traditions that celebrate the Scottish heritage of the bride and groom and their union.